June 12, 2019

Celebrating Aidilfitri in a Muslim minority country

Whatever you call it: Eid al-Fitr, Hari Raya Aidilfitri or Idul Fitri (or more simply, “Lebaran”), the end of the Ramadan fasting month is a major holiday for both Malaysians and Indonesians. This is unsurprising when you consider that 61% and 87% of our respective populations are Muslim. Both our capital cities – Kuala Lumpur and Jakarta – experience a huge exodus of people as millions head back to their “kampung”, or hometown. Indeed, it’s estimated that some 15 million people leave Jakarta in the weeks leading up to Lebaran – returning a few weeks later, in ever greater numbers.
June 12, 2019

Tash Aw explores Malaysia’s dark sides

Tash Aw is a successful, international prize-winning Malaysian novelist. He is also a sophisticated and well-travelled essayist with an intuitive grasp of the zeitgeist and mood of wherever he is. Born in Taipei forty-seven years ago, he has lived and worked across the globe: from Shanghai, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Paris to London, where he is currently based. And yet Tash’s writing only really comes alive – literally crackling with verve and shot through with a combination of both poignancy and menace – when he turns his attention to the gritty working-class milieu of his extended family back home in Malaysia.
May 28, 2019

Of protests and rubber pellets

Nightfall in Jakarta is much earlier than in Kuala Lumpur. The break of fast is at 5.47pm and for Dita Hidayatunnisa, a plump but animated 27-year-old teacher cum administrator from Bekasi, the lengthening shadows made her and her friends suddenly more aware of the change in the mood on Jalan MH Thamrin, the broad six-lane avenue, immediately outside the Bawaslu (Election Supervisory Agency) building in the centre of the city. “The people around us were suddenly different. They weren’t just shuffling around like the rest of us. They seemed to have a purpose.”
May 24, 2019

Whatever may come, the Ganges flows

When Sant Kabir, the 15th Century mystic and poet walked out of Benares (now Varanasi, in Uttar Pradesh or UP), he must have known he was leaving for the last time. Devout Hindus, in the twilight of their lives, have long sought to head towards Varanasi, spending their remaining days in the holiest of cities alongside the holiest of rivers, the Ganges. In contrast, Sant Kabir, a wizened iconoclast chose to walk away, despite having been born there – rejecting ancient Hindu practice and orthodoxy.